A Magical Interlude with Nature

I set off on my African Safari as a solo traveller with wild trepidation. I’ve travelled throughout Europe alone but never to Africa. Would the animals and bugs eat me alive or would I find my inner jungle warrior? Nothing prepares you for the intensity and range of emotions. I had a comprehensive itinerary to fuel my imagination and the days before my trip were fever-pitch.

Day 1 - Lusaka

My flight landed late afternoon from London (via Johannesburg) and I spent my first night at the lovely Ciêla Resort and Spa Hotel in Lusaka, which was spacious and welcoming, and a great introduction to Zambia.

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Day 2 – Royal Zambezi, Lower Zambezi

In the morning, I flew to Lower Zambezi from Lusaka (a short 30 minute flight). The scenery is breathtaking as you follow the meandering Zambezi River cutting through the lush green vegetation. The immaculate tarmac strip ensured us a smooth landing and then the African heat hits you – and you know you’ve arrived. There was a group of four other travellers and we were met with big smiles and whisked to the Royal Zambezi in a 4 x 4 vehicle. It was a
10-minute journey and we were greeted with welcome drinks and a safety briefing. By this stage I’d forgotten all about any of my fears because the view out to the mighty Zambezi was mesmerising. A marshy strip divided the deck and the river and made for perfect game viewing platform. The buffalos were having their brunch and slowly eating the grass as if time had been paused. And back to the safety briefing – we were reminded that were indeed
in the wilderness - they call it the bush! The animals roamed freely and at night we had to be escorted by a guard with a bright torch between our chalets and the dining area. So no nipping back to the room as there could be a chance encounter with an elephant or something hungrier!

Well, my chalet was heavenly – I had my own pool and a couch and a view to keep me dreaming. I believe all the chalets have their own pool so I was not special and there was a shared pool by the bar if you wanted to be more sociable.

I chose to relax for the rest of the afternoon and go on a night drive. I really wanted to see a leopard.

We set off late afternoon and stopped as the sun was going down. The sun downer tradition is big in Zambia and our driver and guide stopped the vehicle in an open space by the river to prepare drinks for all of us. The sunset was fleeting and dramatic with vibrant colours burnt across the vast landscape. The African orange sun manages to seep deep into your soul, leaving you wanting more. Before I had time to get nostalgic, or finish by gin and tonic, I added a few layers in preparation for the mosquitoes – sunset is play time for them too… They think I’m tasty so I did cover up well and use mosquito repellent liberally.
The game viewing was spectacular, zebras, buffalo, elephants, hippos, impalas, bushbuck, kudus, crocodiles, very lazy lions and loads of birds. And then we saw the leopard with her two cubs. What a hightlight. The cubs played in front of us unperturbed and then hid in the thicket in some kind of hide and seek game. The mother had other things on her mind and equally not interested in our fascinated gaze. I’m not sure how long we stopped for because
you lose track of time but it was magical watching this moment in their lives.

It was about 10:30pm when we got back and I was over excited and equally thrilled to be safely escorted back to my room to find a devinely warm bed. They had placed a hot water bottle in the covers as it was quite chilly in the evening. I don’t remember falling asleep under my big mosquito net.

Day 3 - Royal Zambezi, Lower Zambezi

The stillness of the morning is soothing and is a beautiful – a perfect time to reflect whilst drinking your morning coffee. Zambia has excellent home-grown coffee.
I did a yoga session in the morning by the communal pool with an onsite instructor who was brilliant.
After my yoga I had some free time to read and went to my chalet and sat by the pool. As I was reading, there was this great stampeding noise and a herd of impalas raced by me in single file in a great hurry. I don’t know if they saw me but I hope I did not frighten them as they frightened me! And then some waterbuck strolled across the marshy plain (they and warthogs trotted by and stopped to dig for something tasty. I did not make much progress with the book but I felt like I’d come on adventure with David Attenborough and I was in the film without the commentary.
In the afternoon I did a sunset cruise combined with game viewing – the birdlife is excellent and we were treated to a large herd of elephants that came down to drink from the river. Lots of elephant babies (calves) were among the family and I could watch them for hours as they move so majestically and purposefully.
In the evening, a massive fire was lit and guests sat around talking about their experiences and sightings. Everyone was so friendly – you can’t help chatting with people. I was always invited to join people at their table for dinner and I chose to dine with them as we had so stories to swap. If someone had seen something I had not, well it seemed rude not to find them these illusive wild dogs – it would be my final mission.

Day 4 – Royal Zambezi, Lower Zambezi

An early morning game drive is exhilarating – you are given a light snack before you leave and more great coffee before we jumped into the jeep (4x4 vehicle) and headed into the wilderness. The guides knowledge on trees and animals and birds opens up your mind to a completely new world. The mysterious ants and their anthills requires further investigation – the collaborative nature of these small creatures is incredible. Unfortunately, the wild dogs did not make an appearance for me and perhaps it was a sign that I needed to come back.
In the afternoon I bravely joined a canoe trip down a side shoot from the Zambezi. It was way out of my comfort zone as I felt vulnerable in the little boat compared to the jeep but the perspective of being so low and watching the animals coming down to eat is unforgettable. Baboons and monkeys entertained us all the way. They seemed to enjoy the late afternoon immensely too.
I could definitely have stayed longer and spend more time acquainting myself with all these wild creatures that all have a tale to tell.

Day 5 – Royal Livingstone Hotel, Livingstone

An early flight back to Lusaka and onto Livingstone. Flying into Livingstone is even more spectacular than Lower Zambezi, the spray can be seen for miles and you can only appreciate the expanse of the waterfall by seeing it from above.
The Royal Livingstone Hotel is an experience. A bit of a treat for me as it is expensive being an Antara Hotel but a worthwhile one. It is the ultimate luxury hotel and the great pool is heated! And might I add to the perfect temperature. I did miss my private pool… gosh now I sound completely spoilt…
The grounds are manicured by zebras and giraffes and you get to enjoy this spectacle every day and especially breakfast, which is an elaborate affair.
The Victoria Falls are just a walk away from the hotel and as you edge closer you hear the roar of the water before you see a single drop of spray. You do get completely soaked and the hotel provide a raincoat that works well but you have to manage any cameras carefully so they don’t get wet. The winding path takes you to different viewpoints of a wild jungle adorned with palms and exotic foliage. It hypnotises you watching the water tumble 108m down to the gorge below. It is the largest waterfall in the world and is only rivalled by the Iguazu Falls in South America. Victoria Falls is awe-inspiring and no photos do it justice and is unsurprisingly one of the World's Seven Natural Wonders.

Day 6 - Royal Livingstone Hotel, Livingstone

Livingstone has much to offer being the quadripoint of the world – touching borders with Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia. I had a choice of going to Chobe in Botswana for more game viewing or popping across to the Zimbabwe side for lunch, feeding the elephants at the Elephant Café, tracking down the rhinos, river sunset cruise, or dinner on the Royal Livingstone Express a steam train. As it was my last day before I flew home it was a difficult choice. I chose to go to the Elephant Café.
The elephants were so gentle and could not eat enough from the bag of treats. I watched other brave people first before I stepped forward to feed the baby! No jungle warrior label in sight but an absolute culinary delight followed with everything sources locally and wines from South Africa.
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Zambia has so much to offer and I’m coming back for more. Now I’m off to Cape Town to see the wales, penguins and taste some more delicious wine.

Author - TANYA